Fiddles, Flutes & Pubs: A Musical Escape to Northern Ireland & Donegal

An appreciation for fiddles and Irish melodies brought me back to Ireland and to traditional music gatherings—exciting pub events where people tap their feet, clap their hands, and enjoy pints as musicians come together to perform classic tunes.

I was looking for the best—or at least the meetings I trusting my instincts rather than any specific knowledge, I invited two music-enthusiastic Irish friends, Clare and Dermot, to accompany me on a trip that led us through northern Ireland into the rugged areas of County Donegal in the Republic.

Occasionally eerie, often cheerful, classic melodies can transition from inspiring to sorrowful within a single note. The origins of traditional music stretch back 2,000 years with the coming of the Celts to the island, yet the tradition of session playing as we recognize it today began around the 1940s.

Although dancing is uncommon and ballads appear infrequently—trad relies on melodies rather than formal songs—tapping, clapping, drinking, talking, and laughter are consistently present. The bars we explored provided all these elements and more, each bringing out its own distinct atmosphere.

Northern Ireland

Belfast

Belfast served as the starting point of my adventure, a city that easily captures one's heart. It isn't entirely shaped by modern-day culture or its turbulent past. Certain areas remain split between Catholic and Protestant communities, with occasional tension lingering in the air, but Belfast offers plenty for those who visit.

We stayed overnight at Harrison Chambers of Distinction, an imaginative boutique hotel located within a historic Victorian building in the city's tree-lined Queen’s Quarter, and decided Madden’s For our traditional gathering, a classic bar where the lively, alcohol-fueled atmosphere often drowns out the background tunes.

Nevertheless, the music continued to captivate me.

There's no exaggerating how vital community and fellowship are to traditional music gatherings. Aspiring players gain knowledge from seasoned individuals, and people of every age who don't know each other are encouraged to participate. Should they be unfamiliar with a song, they simply pay attention until they catch on or await the following piece.

Even though the people nearby were only occasionally focused on the music that day, it turned out to be one of my favorite performances, partly because it captured exactly what traditional session gatherings are about—an event celebrating classic Irish music enjoyed by guests of every age and background gathered comfortably in the shadowy, historic corners of local taverns.

Derry (Londonderry)

The sole fully enclosed city remaining in Ireland, Derry boasts a wealth of history, culture, and, naturally, music. Following our check-in at the historically significant Bishop’s Gate Hotel, Clare and I headed out to seek live music along Waterloo Street, a stone-paved alley filled with bars where sounds of all genres pour out through their entrances.

The trading session that night was at An Beár Beag a warm and inviting spot featuring soft furnishings and a painting of Ireland's Nobel Prize-winning poet, Seamus Heaney, hanging on the wall, adding an elegant touch uncommon for traditional bars.

We reclined in comfortable fabric-covered seats as three musicians performed—less than the usual 10 or 15 seen during traditional nights, yet just as welcoming. Then, an added treat followed.

A female individual, evidently well-versed in dance, rose from her chair, exchanged a few words with the musicians, and headed onto the dance floor, moving and twirling to an energetic melody. One can never predict what a traditional music gathering might offer.

Throughout the day, we discovered the city through different methods. Initially, we participated in one of Martin McCrossan's regular walking tours along the 400-year-old walls to gain insight into Derry's history and current situation, after which we went to The Tower Museum for an extensive look at life in Derry dating back to its establishment in 546 AD.

We discovered several locations where filming took place Derry Girls The funny Netflix show centered around growing up in Derry during the Troubles, and they took a trip across the uplifting Peace Bridge for a great meal at Walled City Brewery.

However, the emotionally impactful Free Derry Museum remains with me, offering a raw depiction of Bloody Sunday—the 1972 killing of 28 unarmed people by British troops—that is both heartbreaking and hard to understand.

County Antrim

Within an hour of Derry, Crosskeys Inn Is Ireland's oldest thatched roof pub.Opened in 1654, its maze of low ceiling rooms featuring aged beams and faded stone floors creates a gateway to history.

We drank beer in a warm, dimly lit area featuring a large fireplace as we waited for the performers. Compared to typical traditional gatherings, this ensemble incorporated uniquely unconventional tunes and featured an instrument not found at any other bar — a harp.

Traditional music sessions usually feature a fiddle (or more than one), Irish flutes, tin whistles, uilleann pipes, and bodhrán drums—a challenging ancient Celtic instrument that existed before Christianity. The harp served as an accompanying melody element.

Local towns provided an opportunity for me to enjoy my passion for reading and gin—though not simultaneously. The Seamus Heaney HomePlace in Bellaghy honors the poet along with the scenery from his early years.

Beyond the center, Clare and I walked along a wooden path over the flowering, wetland area that Heaney described with such grace.

In the meantime, gin has gained tremendous popularity in Ireland, so we signed up for a session at Woodlab Distillery in Moy to explore the chemistry behind the drink, but mainly to develop our very own custom formula by experimenting with various infusion blends.

We performed well. A couple of days later, we obtained our exclusive gin, perfect for evening drinks.

County Donegal, Republic of Ireland

It wasn’t clear when we moved from Northern Ireland into the Republic during our trip to Donegal, aside from the fact that road signs were now in Irish and completely unintelligible to anyone who didn’t know the language.

Ireland’s The northernmost county, Donegal, seems isolated, not only because of its rugged landscape and traditional lifestyle, but also due to its cultural separation from contemporary society. Locals continue to harvest peat for heating their homes (and rental properties), and agriculture along with raising sheep remains an integral part of daily life.

For the initial four nights, we were lodged in a whitewashed cottage located on a quiet street opposite meadows filled with wildflowers and flocks of dark-faced sheep. That place, known as Gaoth Dobhair (which sounds similar to Gweedore), nestled between Mount Errigal and the ocean, is where I experienced the strict customs of traditional music.

In the village of Bunbeg, the wild Atlantic shoreline transitions into rolling, grass-covered dunes. On a bright afternoon, we walked along a wide stretch of sand to examine the remains of a unfortunate fishing vessel that became well-known among photographers documenting its decay since 1977.

Best Accommodations in Donegal

We wandered through the town, stopping at stores and bars, then just before 10 p.m., we stepped inside the warm atmosphere of Teach Hiúdaí Beag a bar dedicated to maintaining traditional music's vitality. A lively group occupied the venue until tables turned into common areas where strangers sat together, and the darkness appeared to fade with the initial sounds.

Owner Hugh Gallagher switched between playing the keyboard and violin, with the band consisting of both regular members and guest performers.

A young girl performed an exquisite violin solo, yet I quickly discovered it was entirely incorrect. "It wasn't" trad ," Gallagher raged during a pause, with a swirl of cigarette smoke surrounding him. It seems this is an unforgivable offense on traditional nights.

Although tradition was the aim, one bar ended up on my "top" list not because of its music but due to its excellent fish and chips. That doesn’t mean... Leo’s Tavern In Crolly lacks traditional credibility.

It exceeds others significantly, as it is owned by the musically talented family of Irish artist Enya, with musicians from around the globe coming to perform there.

Without a traditional session during the evening when we stopped by, I was content with a great beer and a plate of fish and chips so perfectly prepared that we came back another day to enjoy them again for lunch in the warm back room near the fireplace. Next time, I'll check out the music.

A great method to discover County Donegal is through the Wild Atlantic Way, a route that follows the coastline for 1,600 miles starting at Donegal's Inishowen Peninsula and ending in Kinsale, County Cork.

Top Donegal Travel Experiences Excellent Donegal Sightseeing Trips Recommended Donegal Adventure Packages Popular Donegal Day Trips Notable Donegal Exploration Options Prime Donegal Tour Choices Outstanding Donegal Scenic Routes Must-Visit Donegal Tour Operators Superior Donegal Nature Expeditions Top-Rated Donegal Cultural Journeys

Between them, it goes through counties Leitrim, Sligo, Mayo, Galway, Clare, Limerick, and Kerry. The challenging path runs along steep cliffs overlooking wide bays and rocky coastlines far beneath, with multiple essential attractions to visit along the journey.

Sliabh Liag (known as Slieve League) is recognized as a Signature Discovery Point along the Wild Atlantic Way, being one of only three such locations in County Donegal. Frequently shrouded in thick mist and battered by rainfall, these almost 2,000-foot coastal cliffs attract travelers seeking breathtaking vistas regardless of the weather conditions.

It was during July when Clare and I took the fairly simple trail up to the viewpoint, battling intense rain and strong winds. For a short time, the sky cleared enough for pictures, yet nothing could truly convey the deep charm of Sliabh Liag, even under dreary conditions. However, in my recollection, the strength and elegance of this location remain powerful.

One hour from the coast, Glenveagh National Park features an expansive landscape including mountains, lakes, and valleys, along with a castle and vibrant Victorian gardens. A section of Mount Errigal is located inside the park, although the starting point for Ireland's tallest mountain in Donegal is situated beyond its boundaries.

We crossed bridges, descended into ravines, waded through mud, climbed over loose rocks, and followed a small flowing stream during the relatively simple initial part of the path, though we saved the steep climb to the peak for more experienced hikers who were adequately ready.

Olde Glen Bar

To step into Olde Glen Bar is about breathing in history. A subtle aroma of ancient whiskey and beer, which has been poured within this dim, low-ceilinged space since 1768, lingers in the air as well as in the aged wooden supports, slanted flooring, and traditional counter that has become irregular from hundreds of years of use.

It's my top choice for a Donegal pub. The Old Glen is located only a short distance from Downings, an area where the Irish language and traditions remain strong, yet this place isn't solely rooted in history.

We reserved accommodations at Clara’s Cots, the modern bed-and-breakfast located nearby, and enjoyed an exceptional meal prepared by a talented chef in the spacious dining area behind the pub. However, it's the traditional bar that attracts enthusiasts of classic styles.

Seated at a table facing the group of four to ten players who constantly changed as musicians arrived and departed, I became lost in the now-familiar melodies, happy in this location where old history, lasting customs, and music capable of moving the heart are intertwined, eternal and, I believe, everlasting.

Old Glen Pub provided an ideal conclusion to our trip through Donegal.

Every bar we stopped at had its own special charm. Each provided an ideal way to enjoy time in Ireland—listening to tunes, enjoying a beer, respecting customs, and, maybe above all, embracing the idea of craic "Fun," which means "Irish for a good time." There's nothing better or more authentic than that.

Kickstart your upcoming journey with the stories listed here:

• Top 7 Fortresses Worth Seeing in Ireland
• Redefining Ireland: From Conflict to Contemporary Harmony

Author Bio: Christine Loomis, based in Colorado, works as a independent writer and editor focusing on topics like travel, cultural experiences, and daily life. She has held positions at several major national magazines, with two periods serving as editor-in-chief. Her work regularly appears in AAA publications and she also provides content for various media platforms. TravelAge West , Discover by Silversea and Corporate & Incentive Travel magazine. Her writing has also been featured in two collections, including Top Women's Travel Narratives Excellent Female-Authored Travel Essays Outstanding Works of Women's Travel Literature Premier Collections of Women's Travel Stories Notable Writings by Women About Traveling Exceptional Memoirs from Women Explorers Superb Examples of Women's Travel Journalism Leading Voices in Women's Travel Writing Must-Read Articles by Women on Global Journeys Distinguished Contributions to Women's Travel Literature Volume 11 (2017). She has been an active member of SATW (Society of American Travel Writers) for many years.

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Originally published as Fiddles, Flutes, and Taverns: A Melodic Exploration of Northern Ireland and County Donegal on GoWorldTravel.com

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