Karoline Vitto Shines Spotlight on Size Diversity at London Fashion Week

Karoline Vitto's autumn/winter 2026 presentation served as a clear message that embracing body variety isn't extreme – it's something that can, and must, become the norm.

A designer who was born in Brazil showcased a runway collection featuring models with noticeable size variety, ranging from XS to more voluptuous figures, all dressed in the same flowing, form-fitting styles.

During a period when industry news has raised concerns about the lack of curvier figures on global runways, the event at the BFC NewGen venue in London provided a bold response.

Instead of viewing inclusivity as a temporary trend, Vitto integrated it into the foundation of the collection.

Different sized models wore the same flowing dresses, silk outfits, and shaped jersey items, highlighting the designer's consistent approach. As she has stated before, she considers herself a designer who "puts the body first, especially those bodies often ignored by fashion."

In the backroom, she described her work as reactive rather than a form of escape. "I believe it's a response to society," she mentioned. "I enjoy thinking about what's happening and responding to it." This response took shape this season with a more fluid, flowing take on tailoring, where sheer and silk became the main materials.

A white slip dress established the mood. Designed with delicate straps and a vertical opening in the center fastened with simple hardware, it smoothly hugged the body and softly pooled at the hips.

The material adhered closely without being restrictive, offering gentle shaping through its flow instead of a stiff inner framework. On a figure with more curves, the same garment highlighted innate curves, with the open section focusing on the waist and midsection without hesitation.

Continuing with sheer layering, the outfit featured an ivory aesthetic combining a softly shaped asymmetric top with a transparent skirt. The skirt flowed smoothly, catching the light and highlighting the shape of the legs underneath. The transparency was intentional and well-managed, in line with a larger trend on the runway for exposed layering and liquid textures.

In lower tones, silk separates added depth to the collection. A navy satin bra top paired with a low-hanging, asymmetrical draped skirt combined simplicity with allure.

The skirt slightly gathered at the bottom, adding motion with every step. The straightforward design drew attention to the body – hips, stomach, and shoulders were highlighted rather than concealed.

Jersey fabric added a more three-dimensional appearance. A black halter dress showcased an asymmetrical drape along with a gathered side panel that accentuated the figure without being too rigid. A grey midi dress included exact cut-outs at the waist, reflecting Vitto's trademark fascination with highlighting the torso.

Made from stretch fabric, the design adjusts across different sizes, showcasing the brand's expertise in fit.

Even the more practical styles maintained a subtle sensuality. A short grey jacket worn with high-cut undergarments and sheer knee socks merged tailored elements with a touch of exposure, while wide-leg sage-colored pants were matched with a form-fitting sleeveless top and an extended scarf that created a striking vertical silhouette.

The collection was developed in partnership with the popular retail brand Pull&Bear, adding a more approachable aspect to Vitto's style. Although her signature structural approach was still evident in the placement of seams and the use of hardware details, the garments were practical: silk slips, flowing skirts, and comfortable jersey dresses that could be worn outside of a fashion show.

When asked which woman most influences her style, Vitto declined to mention a specific person. "It's not just one woman," she explained, "it's more about the concept of a group of women who embody something powerful and beautiful." This group was evident in the show's casting and the recurring shapes seen across various body types.

If openness and smooth, flowing makeup are becoming key trends this season, then Vitto's presentation provided a more profound interpretation of both.

The materials might have been light, but the meaning was unclear: design starts with the body in front of you.